Balenciaga from Demna Gvasalia

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Fashion hope?

No matter how inspiring clothes might look, what is fashion without its designers taking responsibility for longer-term salvation?

The designer who’s always acted as luxury fashion’s foremost prophet of environmental doom said he’d taken his four months of isolation thinking around that very seriously. The impetus of the collection was “imagining how fashion will be in 2030.

When thinking of the future, it’s not a Stanley Kubrick space-age vision for me. Mine is very much down to earth. Ten years from now, everything in fashion will be sustainable.

No discussion, right? I think we will be reusing the clothes we have. 

Time makes things beautiful.

I heard a quote from Martin Margiela when I was working there, about the value of ‘the trace of time’ in clothes. That touched me deeply. We keep clothes like that to death. I mean, I have a hoodie that’s 15 years old. It’s bleached out and has holes in it. But I cannot throw that away. So, I thought: In the year 2030, how will your favorite things look, aged and destroyed.

A press release specified: “93.5% of the plain materials in this collection are either certified sustainable or upcycled. 100% of the print bases have sustainable certifications.” With the resources of the Kering Group at hand, Gvasalia said, “we discovered we could do it quite easily, with the exception of the fibers that are in some of the existing fabrics. There are solutions if you look for them. There’s a need to revise things. To start a new chapter.

Some strategies came from a primal psychological reconnection with why clothes matter to him.

Others amplify—literally—the relevance of the oversized look (from tailoring to hoodies) that Gvasalia was responsible for launching in fashion in the first place.

“It became very obvious to try to do garments that are unisex, uni-size, uni-everything—or whatever we want to call it. It drastically reduced the number of cuts and fits we had to make. Also, I like the fact that according to who wears it, the silhouette changes, but whoever wears it, it looks good.”

 

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